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The name 'Ceylon' may have faded from the map, but it lives on in one of the world's most celebrated teas. High in Sri Lanka's cool, misty hills, tea bushes carpet the slopes in every shade of green, tended by pickers and processed in colonial-era factories. This is a guide to Ceylon tea and the beautiful hill country that produces it.
Sri Lanka was not always tea country. In the 19th century the hills were covered in coffee, until a devastating blight wiped out the plantations. A Scottish planter named James Taylor planted the island's first commercial tea at Loolecondera estate in the 1860s, and the crop thrived.
Soon after, a young grocer called Thomas Lipton bought up estates and shipped the tea directly to Britain, making 'Ceylon tea' a household name. Today Sri Lanka remains one of the world's largest tea exporters, and the industry still shapes the landscape and rhythm of the highlands.
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The heart of tea country lies in the cool central highlands, where altitude and climate give the leaves their character.
The higher the estate, the more delicate and aromatic the tea tends to be.
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Watching tea being made is one of the highlights of a visit to the hills, and many estates welcome visitors for a factory tour.
The process follows a time-honoured sequence:
The scent of a working tea factory is unforgettable.
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Ceylon tea is prized for its brightness and crisp, citrusy character, and tasting it at source is a treat. High-grown teas from Nuwara Eliya are light and fragrant; mid- and low-grown teas are fuller and stronger.
When buying to take home:
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The hill country offers far more than a good cuppa. The cool climate is a welcome relief from the coastal heat, and the scenery is some of the finest in Sri Lanka.
Base yourself in Ella or Nuwara Eliya and you can walk to waterfalls, hike Little Adam's Peak, ride the famous Kandy-to-Ella train through the estates, or simply sip tea on a colonial veranda as the mist rolls across the valley. It is the island at its most tranquil and green.
There is something deeply restful about the Sri Lankan highlands — the cool air, the endless green, the ritual of a freshly brewed cup. On our small-group trips we take you into the working estates, onto the scenic railway and behind the scenes of a tea factory, with local guides who bring the history to life. Come and discover the story of Ceylon tea where it grows.
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