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Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth and the spiritual heart of India. On the banks of the sacred Ganges, life and death play out in the open in a way found nowhere else. It's intense, overwhelming and utterly unforgettable. This guide will help you understand and experience the holy city with sensitivity and wonder.
Also known as Kashi and Benares, Varanasi is the holiest city in Hinduism, sacred to Lord Shiva. Hindus believe that dying here and being cremated on the banks of the Ganges brings moksha, release from the cycle of rebirth.
Pilgrims come from across India to bathe in the river, pray at its temples and honour their dead. To visit is to witness one of the world's most profound living spiritual traditions, largely unchanged for millennia.
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The soul of Varanasi is its ghats, the stone steps leading down to the Ganges. Some 80 ghats line the river, each with its own character.
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Each evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, priests perform the Ganga Aarti, a mesmerising fire ceremony of chanting, bells, incense and swirling brass lamps offered to the river goddess.
It's a spectacular, deeply moving ritual. Arrive early for a good spot, or watch from a boat on the water for a magical perspective. A smaller, more intimate aarti also takes place at Assi Ghat at dawn.
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Beyond the river, Varanasi is a labyrinth of ancient lanes filled with temples, shrines and shops selling the city's famous Banarasi silk.
The golden Kashi Vishwanath Temple is the holiest of all, though its inner sanctum is for Hindus only. Just outside the city, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon, a serene and important Buddhist pilgrimage site well worth a half-day visit.
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Varanasi asks for sensitivity. The cremation ghats are places of grief and ritual, not tourist attractions.
The intensity can be confronting, so give yourself time to absorb it. Approached with an open, respectful heart, Varanasi will move you like nowhere else.
The best time to visit is October to March, when the weather is cooler. The festival of Dev Deepawali, around November, sees the ghats lit with thousands of lamps, an extraordinary sight. Summers are extremely hot, and the monsoon can swell the river and flood the lower ghats.
Varanasi is inexpensive, with guesthouses overlooking the river and cheap, delicious street food. Boat rides are very affordable; agree a price with the boatman before setting off.
Varanasi is a place best understood with guidance, someone to explain its rituals, navigate its lanes and help you experience it with the respect it deserves. Our small-group India trips bring you to the sacred city at the right time of day for its most powerful moments, from dawn on the river to the evening aarti. Get in touch to include Varanasi in your journey.
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